Chance Meeting

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Brussels has an area of narrow meandering streets with restaurants set cheek by swelling jowl. The summer warmth brings out a raft of tables, two to four deep, in a pedestrian cacophony of chatter, clank, clink, and chew. All venues are charming, but most are gastronomically mediocre. Fortunately, Rod is a hungry ferret at dusk, and he rooted out what proved to be one of the best of the lot 20 minutes after we enjoyed a drink in the Grand Place, a stunningly beautiful and expansive plaza that serves as the city’s primary social hub.

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While enjoying a Belgian brew before dinner (the best beer in the world comes from this little nation), we noticed a foursome a table away speaking in English tongues from opposite sides of the pond—the Brits professorial, the Americans animated, both interesting. When we left the bar to forage, there was no reason to think we would see them again among the crush of tourists and partiers who jostle each other in the EU’s capital. So it was with some surprise that they chose to eat at an adjacent table only minutes after we sat for dinner. This we soon learned was only partially coincidence as the Brits were expat Brusselonians (or whatever one calls them, quote me at your peril) whose local knowledge had limited their choices to the few quality restaurants.

During dinner we six got into a loud and friendly conversation about food, politics, personal origins, and Bruce Springsteen, the last because they four had tickets to a concert with The Boss, Blondie, Santana and others, to be held outside Brussels on the following night:
Wrecking Ball Tour
Europeans, we learned, think that Americans are well-travelled; Americans, that Belgium is as dull as Hartford. The Atlantic, by comparison with these misunderstandings, is a narrow gulf.

From the unwelcoming end of the horse…

From the unwelcome size of the horse...

After a comfortable flight to Brussels, we took the train from the airport to Centraal Station one block from our hotel. The train was clean, the ride smooth and quiet. The stations are plain and dingy. Flat surfaces between stations, like retaining walls and equipment covers, are soaked in graffiti, leisurely drawn. Perhaps this is an effective outlet, as the city is less marred, but youthful exuberance is not stifled much.

After a 90 minute walking tour, we settled into a sidewalk cafe to sample some great Belgian beers (6). We agreed that few of the tourists are American. Word has not reached the states that Brussels is a party town. As is common in Europe, teens with adults drink without public scorn.

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All the streets in this area are paved with stones, not asphalt or cement. The clatter of luggage rollers alerts one of approaching tourists. Ornate buildings are well maintained, given that most have seen more centuries than I have witnessed intelligent presidents. Respect for age is a virtue I am learning to admire, if not embrace.

Ok, the beer has gone to my head. Time for…how do you say “siesta” in French?